Kaitaia - Kerkeri - Matauri Bay - Whangaroa Harbour - Doubtless Bay

Weather: Mainly sunny and dry, one big shower
Road: Sealed, some unsealed
Rever Link:


I left home at around 11:30 am. There were lots of tourists on the road but manageable. Most drivers are happy to let you pass. I enjoyed the Maungamukas as I do most of the times. Followed by an easy ride along State Highway 1. Just one numbnut who thought he had to prove he can drive as fast as a bike and didn't bother with his following distance. I left him behind on the twisty bits and he eventually gave up. I lost him in Okaihau when I turned left towards Kerikeri and I was happy to leave him chasing shadows on his way back to the big city in the south. Idiots like him push the road toll upwards.

I stopped at the Old Packhouse Market for a coffee and a catch up with my stall holder friends. I was thinking of having a swim and my friend Julie gave me her secret favourite beach location in the north. I'll keep it secret for now.

I popped in to New World for the hunt for some coffee filter papers for my nice customers Antonie and Rolf. They are German tourists and struggled to find the right sized coffee filters. When I came out of the supermarket the lights on the bike were at full beam. Hang on, what? Me idiot left the key in the ignition. My excuse: my mind is busy at the moment with a "personal situation". I am at some times totally incapable of concentrating on the real life. Got to get it out of my system. 

Hopped on the bike and decided to skip swimming at the beach and do the Matauri Bay - Whangaroa Loop instead. I did that road in 1998 when visiting New Zealand as tourists with a motor camper. Back then the road was all unsealed. I took that road again a while ago with the car when there was a car accident on SH1 and they used the loop road as a detour. I then learned it is now all sealed and always wanted to do this beautiful part of our Northland roads on the bike. 

So I turned right from SH1 towards Matauri Bay. This is a lovely road. Long straights, high speed corners, some twisty bits with tight corners with speed recommendations of 35, 25 and even 15km on the yellow signs. The sun was shining, the landscape is stunning what more could you want. You come to a T-junction and turn left towards Whangaroa Harbour. The road winds up a hill and to your right lies Matauri Bay and the Cavalli Islands. There is a lookout after about 1 km. I stopped there to enjoy the view. 

Matauri Bay was busy. You could see boats zipping around in the bay, cars looked like toys from up there and the campgrounds were packed to the limit. 

A couple of people stopped to enjoy the view and I got to talk to a couple. Liam was from Paihia and rides a Harley. He was accompanied by Carmen a German girl from Frankfurt being on holidays. It is a funny thing with Harley riders. He introduced himself like "You might hate me already but I am riding a Harley". Why can't we be all just bikers? I don't really care what you ride as long as you are a nice guy or girl. You obviously love that kind of bike as much as I love mine. That's all what matters.  

Liam asked if he could sit on my bike and he was really interested. We were chatting about Ewan McGregor and The Long Way Around
 and stuff. Then he pointed to my rear tyre and said "That's not looking good". I was shocked to find the rubber gone and the thread coming through. How could this happen? I checked the tyre before I left. It was definitely ok. I wiped down the rims at home and would have seen any damage. There was none. Shit. Not good. I said goodbye to Carmen and Liam and
started limping home. A shit feeling if you know your tyre might give in any moment now. Knowing it was on the right side of the tyre I took right hand corners with a feeling like driving on raw eggs (A German saying, "Wie auf rohen eiern"). I couldn't really enjoy the ride from then on. I will have to do that road again. 

I got into a heavy shower just before Mangonui but dried out again during the ride. I stopped briefly at Antonie and Rolf's Holiday Unit and they were over the moon that I got them their coffee filters. I then had to make the decision whether to take the shortest route home via Peria which has about 20 km of unsealed road or if I take "The Long Way Home" via Kaitaia which is all sealed. I decided I'll go past Peria. If I get a flat on that road I know enough people where I could leave the bike. Luckily I made it without incident and was glad to have her back in the garage. 

Now I have to find some new tyres and organize them being put on the rims. We don't habe a bike shop up here which would provide the whole service. I will have to remove the wheels myself, organize tyres to be sent to me and then I can get them mounted. Put the wheels back in and I should be sorted. Still, not something I would want at around this time of the year. Most businesses are closed. Crap!